しおのは・Shionoha
Shionoha is located on the east side of the Yoshino river, almost as south as Obatani. To get there, you will need to cross the Osako Dam. The geography of the hamlet itself is small, but it is huge in importance. Shionoha is the gateway for accessing the source of the Yoshino river, arguably the most important point in Kawakami or even the entire Kii Peninsula.
The source of the river is referred to in Kawakami as the 水源地（Sui-gen-chi) . This could perhaps be one of the most pristine spaces you will ever set eyes upon. Many visitors compare the experience of visiting here to entering the world of Hayao Miyazaki’s Princess Mononoke. Trapped within the surrounding porous mountains for years, it is here that spring water is released and the river begins.
You can access the trailhead on your own and hike up to a certain point on your own, but if you’d like to hike further than the common lunching area it is required that you do so with a guide from Kawakami village’s local ecological preservation group, the 森と水源流館 (Mori to Mizu Genryukan).
It is highly recommended that even for trips that do not venture into the protected area that you do so with a guide from the Genryukan. This area is very far from civilization and is beyond the reach of cell phone reception.
Aside from safety concerns, the staff of the Genryukan are highly knowledgable about local ecology. Venturing into the most pristine corners of Kawakami with their knowledge and guidance will transform your trip into an unforgettable learning experience that will spark new ideas to explore within your mind for years to come.
No trip to Shionoha is complete without a trip to the Shionoha Onsen, also referred to as “Yamabato-no-yu” 入之波温泉 山鳩湯. The name translates to “The Turtledove Hotspring” in English, and is one of the most unique hot springs in all of Japan. The water is very rich in sodium bicarbonate and other minerals, so much so that the water is murky. Mineral deposits several inches thick line the entire bath and need to be jackhammered off the walls every so often. Onsen like this are one in a million.
The water comes from 150 meters deep within the ground and the interesting cocktail of minerals naturally present in the water are believed to be very good for the health.
Be sure to wave hello to the taxidermied boar in the lobby.